Stone Setting Part 3 | Claw Setting & Rub Over Setting | Some Considerations

This is part 3 of the Stone Setting series, we would like to provide some suggestions on different stone setting techniques and what we usually recommend to our clients. Stone setting is a crucial aspect of jewellery design, as it not only enhances the beauty of the gemstone but also ensures its security. In this article, we will discuss two popular stone setting methods: claw setting (also known as prong setting) and rub-over setting (also known as bezel setting).

Claw Set (Prong Setting)

Claw setting is a popular type of gemstone setting that offers many benefits over other types of settings. It is perfect for turning into rings, earrings, pendants and brooches. The claws are basically made with metal prongs that hold the gemstone in place. They can be shaped in different ways to create different looks and styles. Claw setting is commonly used for round stones, and it offers various advantages depending on the number of claws used.

One of the main benefits of claw settings is that they allow more light to enter the stone and reflect back out, making it appear brighter and more brilliant. They also allow for more of the stone to be visible, which is especially important for faceted stones. The number of claws used in a claw setting can vary depending on the size and shape of the stone. For smaller stones, 4 claws may be sufficient to hold the stone securely in place. However, for larger stones, 6 or 8 claws may be necessary to provide adequate support and stability.

Number of Claws

6 Claws vs 4 Claws

Using 6 claws to hold a stone creates an illusion of a larger gem. The additional claws provide more visibility of the stone’s surface, allowing it to sparkle from multiple angles. A setting with six claws offers enhanced safety for the stone. In case one of the claws gets damaged, the remaining five still provide stability, reducing the risk of the stone falling out.

Changes the looks of the stone shape

On the other hand, opting for 4 claws gives the stone a square-shaped appearance. This setting can be visually appealing for individuals who prefer a more symmetrical look. However, there are some safety considerations that we recommend our customers to have a think about before deciding to use a 4 claws setting.

Balancing Looks and Safety

Unless there is a specific reason to choose four claws, it is generally advisable to opt for 6 claws. While four claws may offer a distinct aesthetic appeal, six claws provide greater security and peace of mind.

Compared to 6 claws, a setting with only 4 claws may be slightly less secure when it comes to potential damages to claws. Basically, if one of the four claws gets damaged, the stone becomes more susceptible to dislodging.

Rub-Over Setting (or Bezel Setting)

Rubover setting is a type of gemstone setting that places the gemstone in a circle of metal, which is then folded all around it to catch the hips of the gem at its widest point and lock it in place. When complete, the stone is surrounded by metal, creating a halo effect. It is also known as a bezel setting or rubbed-over setting.

The Rubover setting holds the diamond in place within a continuous edge of metal. This can be cast or hand-made and most sizes and shapes of diamond can be set in this way. It is probably less popular for retailers or mass manufacturers but more for custom handmade jewellery because diamond size needs to be precise, and there is far less tolerance for pre-designed settings. This is especially true where fancy shapes are concerned.

Illusion of Size

Rub-over setting can create an illusion of a larger stone due to the metal rim surrounding it. This effect enhances the perceived size of the gem, making it visually impressive.

Heavier Look

This setting technique gives the jewellery a substantial and luxurious appearance. The metal rim adds weight and presence to the overall design, making it visually appealing.

Comfort and Safety

Rub-over setting offers enhanced comfort for the wearer. With no protruding claws, there is no risk of accidentally catching or snagging the jewellery on clothing or other objects.

Additionally, the metal rim provides a secure and stable setting, reducing the chances of the stone becoming loose or falling out.

Professional Designs and Recommendations

As professionals, we strive to provide the best designs and recommendations for our clients. Here are our specific recommendations based on the stone’s shape:

Marquise, Heart-shaped, Pear-shaped, and Princess-cut Stones

These stone shapes have corners that require extra protection. Therefore, we recommend a corner claw setting for these stones.

Corner claw setting offers improved safety and sturdiness, ensuring better protection for the stone. Other claw settings may pose a higher risk of chipping the stone, particularly at the corners.

Need some help to choosing the right Stone Setting for your unique piece of jewellery?

San from Gillian’s Jewellery in Melbourne has many years of experience in the field. If you have any questions about stone setting, feel absolutely free to come into our Forest Hill Chase store to have chat with her and our friendly team members, or click the below button to contact us. If you found this information useful to your friends as well, feel free to share with your friends, and don’t forget to like and subscribe Gillian’s Jewellery Youtube Channel for more news, knowledge, and stories.

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