Stone Setting Part 1 | Different Types of Settings | Gillian’s Jewellery

Stone setting is the art of securely attaching gemstones into jewellery. It is an important part of jewellery making, as it ensures that the stones are held in place and protected from damage. There are many different types of stone settings, each with its own unique advantages and disadvantages.  Since this is quite a big topic, we’ll break this topic down into a few posts to provide our customers more comprehensive information.

What is Stone Setting?

Stone setting is the process of securing a gemstone into a piece of jewellery. The gemstone is held in place by a metal frame, called a setting. The setting can be made from a variety of metals, including gold, silver, platinum, and palladium.

There are many different types of stone settings, each with its own unique advantages and disadvantages. Some of the most common types of stone settings include:

Claw Setting (also known as Prong Setting)

This classic and versatile setting involves using metal claws, known as prongs, to hold the gemstone in place. Claw settings allow maximum light penetration and showcase the stone’s brilliance.

Rub Over Setting (also known as Bezel Setting)

In this setting, a metal rim surrounds the gemstone, securing it in place. Bezel settings offer excellent protection and a sleek, contemporary look.

Channel Setting

Channel setting involves placing gemstones in a metal channel, creating a smooth and continuous row of stones. This setting is often used for wedding bands and eternity rings.

Pavé Setting

In the pavé setting, small gemstones are set closely together, covering the surface of the jewellery piece with a brilliant sparkle. This technique is commonly used to add glamour to rings, earrings, and bracelets.

Flush Setting

Also known as gypsy setting, this technique involves embedding the gemstone into the metal, leaving the surface of the stone flush with the metal. It offers a clean and modern look.

Tension Setting

Tension settings use the pressure of the metal to hold the gemstone securely in place. The stone appears to be floating, creating a captivating and contemporary aesthetic.

Cluster Setting

In cluster settings, multiple smaller gemstones are grouped closely together to create the illusion of a larger, more significant stone. This technique offers a beautiful and affordable alternative to a single large stone.

Bar Setting

Bar setting involves placing gemstones between metal bars, securing them in a row. This setting is commonly used for accent stones or in combination with other settings for added visual interest.

Gypsy Setting

Gypsy setting is similar to flush setting, where the gemstone is set into the metal. However, in gypsy setting, the metal is shaped into a concave form to hold the stone securely.

Tapered Baguette Setting

Tapered baguette settings are often used alongside a larger centre stone to enhance its beauty. The baguette-shaped stones are set on either side, gradually tapering in size.

Grain Setting

Grain setting involves setting small gemstones using tiny beads or grains of metal to hold them in place. This technique creates a delicate and intricate appearance.

Illusion Setting

Illusion setting uses metalwork and gemstone arrangement to create the illusion of a larger or different-shaped stone. This setting technique is often employed to enhance the perceived value of the piece.

Halo Setting

In halo settings, a central gemstone is surrounded by a circle or halo of smaller stones. This setting enhances the brilliance and visual impact of the center stone.

Split Shank Setting

Split shank settings feature a band that divides into two or more separate strands before reaching the gemstone. This setting adds a distinctive and stylish element to the design.

Bar Channel Setting

Bar channel setting uses metal bars to separate and hold gemstones securely in place. This setting is commonly used for accent stones and provides a sleek and modern look.

Remember, these are just some of the most commonly used stone settings in jewellery. Each setting offers its unique aesthetic and functional benefits, allowing for endless creativity in jewellery design.

Why is stone setting important?

Stone setting is important for a number of reasons. First, it ensures that the gemstone is held in place and protected from damage. Second, it allows the gemstone to be displayed in its best light. Third, it can add to the overall beauty and value of the jewellery.

Brief history of stone setting

The history of stone setting is a long and complex one. The earliest known examples of stone setting date back to the Neolithic period, when people began to use beads and other small stones to decorate their clothing and bodies. Stone setting became more sophisticated in the Bronze Age, when people began to use metal tools to cut and shape stones. The development of new tools and techniques led to the development of new types of stone settings, such as the bezel setting and the channel setting.

In the Middle Ages, stone setting reached its peak of development. This was due in part to the rise of Islam, which placed a high value on jewellery and other forms of ornamentation. Islamic jewellers developed new and innovative techniques for setting stones, such as the millegrain setting and the cloisonné setting.

The Renaissance saw a renewed interest in stone setting in Europe. This was due in part to the rediscovery of ancient Roman and Greek jewellery techniques. European jewellers developed new and sophisticated techniques for setting stones, such as the rose cut and the brilliant cut.

Here are some of the most common materials used for stone setting

In the modern era, stone setting has continued to evolve. New materials and techniques have been developed, and jewellers have become increasingly creative in their use of stones. Today, there are more options than ever before for those who want to have their jewellery custom-made.

Gold

Gold is a popular choice for stone setting because it is durable and does not tarnish.

Silver

Silver is a less expensive option than gold, but it is also less durable.

Platinum

Platinum is the most expensive option for stone setting, but it is also the most durable.

Palladium

Palladium is a newer option for stone setting that is similar to platinum in terms of durability and price.